The past couple of months I have been working on the four modules which will make up the layout. I am trying a new technique for the benchwork that will allow it to be sturdy and lightweight so that I can move them if needed.
The idea for this came from a TrainMasters TV video on the construction of the Pine Street modules. You can find that video here on Youtube. You can also read more about Robin's construction techniques here.
Incidentally, I've learned that Robin has now moved from this project to a Proto:48 layout depicting an industrial branch in Guelph, Ontario! Here's Robin's blog for that project.
The modules are boxes constructed from thin plywood. I have completed two of the four modules so far and I am learning as I go. Overall am impressed with the end result.
Benefits of this technique:
Downsides:
So far the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks - for me anyway. I have moderate carpentry skills and always enjoy trying new things so I dove in with excitement.
Three of the sections will be identical and 24" deep by 5'10" long. The fourth, containing the "Cannery Warehouse" will have to be modified as it needs to slope gently from one end to the other to account for the topography. The modules are 6" thick and I am planning that the fourth one will simply be thinner at the one end.
Materials and Construction:
The modules are made of end caps of 1/2" Baltic or Russian birch - a very stable, high-grade plywood used in cabinet making. It is far more expensive than other "shop" grade plywoods but you need very little for this design. The sides and internal supports are 1/4 luan (or underlay) available at home improvement centres. The top and bottom are a mere 1/8 "utility plywood" as Home Depot called it, and was a measly CAN$10 for a 4x8' sheet. Overall, I estimate each module costs about $30 in materials including glue and pins.
You can top this with whatever your preference of subroadbed/roadbed material: extruded foam insulation, cork, Homasote, etc. I will likely just lay the rail directly on the 1/8" utility ply if it looks like it will make a suitable substrate. Otherwise, I might add 1/4" or 1/2" ply subroadbed. Most of my rail will be laid in the street, but I do need to consider the few spots where ties will be visible...
The 2 Tools:
The really neat thing I found about these modules though is that they can be built with just a few tools and you don't need a great deal of skill to build them. The most important thing is to keep all of your cuts square and to do that I recommend a cross-cut sled and table saw setup. I discovered the joys of the cross-cut sled while building some cabinets for my pantry this past summer and it changed how I do woodworking. Just search for crosscut sled in Youtube or Google to find numerous simple and inexpensive plans for this handy table saw accessory.
Once you have the materials ripped and cut to length, you can do the rest of the work with a common jig-saw (tool #2). The jig-saw removed material on the bottom sheet, more to create access than for weight considerations as the 1/8" utility plywood is so light already. If you were going with more robust material, say 1/4" luan or baltic birch, then the weight savings might also be helpful.
I also picked up a neat little battery-powered 23ga pin nailer for this project. Mine is a Ryobi version that was on sale at my local home improvement store. What a difference over pneumatic nailers!
You could forgo the pin-nailer if you have access to lots of wide bar clamps for the glue-up. Not having the clamps, I found the nailer helps hold things together while the glue dries and was cheaper than buying a half dozen or so large clamps. Plus it has already come in handy for lots of other projects around the home.
The only other thing you need is a flat surface to work on and some glue. I used a mix of Gorilla brand and high-quality carpenters glues for these modules. The Gorilla glue filled the voids in the diagonals and ensured a nice, solid connection where they are attached.
In the Youtube video, modeller Robin Talukdar painted his modules inside and out. They look great but I haven't decided if I'm going to go that route yet or not. If I do, they will likely be an off-white to make it easier to see inside the module boxes for any electrical and turnout control maintenance and installation.
I'll post a shot of the finished modules as soon as I can access my workshop again post Covid isolation...
The idea for this came from a TrainMasters TV video on the construction of the Pine Street modules. You can find that video here on Youtube. You can also read more about Robin's construction techniques here.
Incidentally, I've learned that Robin has now moved from this project to a Proto:48 layout depicting an industrial branch in Guelph, Ontario! Here's Robin's blog for that project.
Benefits of this technique:
- inexpensive
- very strong and sturdy
- flexibility in mounting/supporting benchwork
- can build it with just two tools (although I used three or four)
- easy to keep everything square/level once boxes are constructed
Downsides:
- accuracy pays off in construction so it makes a bit more complicated than some other techniques
- boxes can act like a drumhead so sound deadening might be required
So far the benefits far outweigh the drawbacks - for me anyway. I have moderate carpentry skills and always enjoy trying new things so I dove in with excitement.
Three of the sections will be identical and 24" deep by 5'10" long. The fourth, containing the "Cannery Warehouse" will have to be modified as it needs to slope gently from one end to the other to account for the topography. The modules are 6" thick and I am planning that the fourth one will simply be thinner at the one end.
Materials and Construction:
The modules are made of end caps of 1/2" Baltic or Russian birch - a very stable, high-grade plywood used in cabinet making. It is far more expensive than other "shop" grade plywoods but you need very little for this design. The sides and internal supports are 1/4 luan (or underlay) available at home improvement centres. The top and bottom are a mere 1/8 "utility plywood" as Home Depot called it, and was a measly CAN$10 for a 4x8' sheet. Overall, I estimate each module costs about $30 in materials including glue and pins.
You can top this with whatever your preference of subroadbed/roadbed material: extruded foam insulation, cork, Homasote, etc. I will likely just lay the rail directly on the 1/8" utility ply if it looks like it will make a suitable substrate. Otherwise, I might add 1/4" or 1/2" ply subroadbed. Most of my rail will be laid in the street, but I do need to consider the few spots where ties will be visible...
 |
| Basic frame laid out ready for test fitting. |
The 2 Tools:
The really neat thing I found about these modules though is that they can be built with just a few tools and you don't need a great deal of skill to build them. The most important thing is to keep all of your cuts square and to do that I recommend a cross-cut sled and table saw setup. I discovered the joys of the cross-cut sled while building some cabinets for my pantry this past summer and it changed how I do woodworking. Just search for crosscut sled in Youtube or Google to find numerous simple and inexpensive plans for this handy table saw accessory.
 |
| The simple but life-changing crosscut sled atop my cheap table saw setup. |
Once you have the materials ripped and cut to length, you can do the rest of the work with a common jig-saw (tool #2). The jig-saw removed material on the bottom sheet, more to create access than for weight considerations as the 1/8" utility plywood is so light already. If you were going with more robust material, say 1/4" luan or baltic birch, then the weight savings might also be helpful.
I also picked up a neat little battery-powered 23ga pin nailer for this project. Mine is a Ryobi version that was on sale at my local home improvement store. What a difference over pneumatic nailers!
 |
| New toy: battery-powered 23ga pin nailer. Useful for hobby work and around the house. |
You could forgo the pin-nailer if you have access to lots of wide bar clamps for the glue-up. Not having the clamps, I found the nailer helps hold things together while the glue dries and was cheaper than buying a half dozen or so large clamps. Plus it has already come in handy for lots of other projects around the home.
The only other thing you need is a flat surface to work on and some glue. I used a mix of Gorilla brand and high-quality carpenters glues for these modules. The Gorilla glue filled the voids in the diagonals and ensured a nice, solid connection where they are attached.
 |
| The basic box frame glued up and nailed. Getting 23ga pin nails into the ends of 1/4" ply was a bit of a challenge! Just the top and bottom left to go on. |
 |
| The 1/8" utility ply suffered a bit of tear-out from the jigsaw blade. Here a piece of 180-grit is attached to a cardboard mailing tube to create a handy sander for those rounded cuts on the bottom sheet. |
I'll post a shot of the finished modules as soon as I can access my workshop again post Covid isolation...
Hi Francis! Thanks for the tip I'll have to look into those. The Ryobi pin nailer is quite ergonomic and lightweight (new battery technology is wonderful)!
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